I LOVE LA — NO, REALLY

Mosaic_wide_pool
I’m sitting right here – next to the pool, at the Mosaic Hotel  in Beverly Hills, where we’ve been coming for years.  What a treat to be writing outside in December.  The whole time I lived here I complained – about the lack of "intellectual rigor", about the meanness of Hollywood (which, by the way, makes Washington politicians look like amateurs), about the lack of autumn foliage, about the spoiled kids and on and on.  I guess I still think a lot of those things, but when we drive in from the airport, passing all the pastel buildings, the sun shining, the air balmy and gentle – I remember the good things.  Maybe our East Coast weather builds character and a grounding in reality but this really is lovely.  At least for visiting.

It’s also different to come to LA as an observant Jew.   Orthodox Jews are a parallel universe – something like Harry Potter compared to the Muggles.  It’s a culture with, by necessity, many of its own institutions, the strengths of which are  determined largely by the size of the community.  LA has lots of observant and formally Orthodox Jews so there’s a spectrum of services — and standards.  Yeshiva girls in sweatshirts and leggings, every kind of kosher restaurant, schools, and of course, shuls.  Here’s little bit of what we’ve seen in the couple of hours we’ve been here on this trip.

Bnai_david This is B’nai David Judea, a modern Orthodox congregation on Pico near Robertson, in the heart of the Orthodox community.  We’ve been to services there a couple of times on Shabbat – it’s a lovely community and a beautiful sanctuary – and the congregation is young, hip, and in many cases, Hollywood.

Kosher_market
Just a block away there are several kosher groceries and delis.  Here’s one.

The_guys_at_jeffs_2
And these guys – they’re the backbone of Jeff’s Gourmet Kosher sausage.  We’re taking lots home to our friends – there’s nothing like it near us.

Subway_wide_cropped_2
And this — this is a real, live, kosher Subway!  Not too shabby.

There’s more to LA than the stereotypes that were our reality when we lived here.  Lots that’s nice.  Sadly, the  ugliness and banality  conceals much of it;  only after a long absence (and  perhaps the added perspective of a religious community) that I, at least, have been able to see both sides.  So bring it on Randy Newman — it’s a great song.