AN ARTISTS’ COLONY, THE ORIGINAL HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL, THE CRAZY JERUSALEM MARKET AND 7 MILES ON MY PEDOMETER

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This was a remarkable day.  In the first place, according to my pedometer we’ve walked seven miles!  Even more importantly, of course, was where we walked.  Our first stop was an accident – wandering toward the Old City from our apartment we ended up in the lovely old neighborhood of Yemen Moshe.  Symbolized by the windmill at the top of the hill upon which this old neighborhood is built, it has long been highly desirable and glamorous place to live – full of artists and intellectuals.  Now there are also dozens of galleries and shops – but we just strolled around en route to the oldest parts of the city.
Holocause_come_in From there, we went into Old Jerusalem through the Zion Gate – a way we’d never been before, and explored the area around an old Armenian church, when suddenly we came upon this sign

At first we weren’t even sure it was for real — we’d certainly never heard of it and both of us are pretty well-schooled in Holocaust lore.  As we drew closer, we were shocked to find a small entrance to an equally small courtyard offering the gateway to “The Chamber of the Holocaust”  and this sign:

Jew_hatred_1 From there we moved into a small, cave-like room whose walls were covered with stone tablets, much like grave stones, dedicated to lost towns in the countries of the Shoah.  Three rooms and an outdoor courtyard were covered with the “headstones” and all the rest of the exhibits were, old, faded, primitive and clearly created with love, outrage and very little money.  Somehow, the very “scotch tape and cutouts” quality of the exhibits  magnified the grief and determination of those who had created them.  It was a remarkable moment in our day.  Here are a couple more photos:
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The “cave” with the headstones to lost cities and towns.

 

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One of several walls of photo- graphs of lost souls.  There are more, but this is enough.  Lots of other things happened today but this is where I want to leave things.  I’ll try one more post before Shabbat but if I don’t make it, I’ll catch us up on Saturday night.
 
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Here’s just one preview though – of Jerusalem’s favorite market – Machene Yehuda.  Good night for now.

JERUSALEM DIARY 2.0 – DAY NINE — PHOTO ALBUM DAY

Today was our last day of classes – thrilling both at Pardes and the Ulpan.  We got a funny little certificate from our Ulpan teachers – here we are with Shira – who taught us most of the time.
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I was really sad to leave; it’s been so exciting for me to finally at least understand the alphabet and a flash card pile of new words.  I never thought it would happen and am enormously grateful – I never thought I’d do this — but also very fond of the crew who taught us.

After class we went down to the Old City.  Here’s some of what we saw:
SUNSET AT YEMEN MOSHE, OLD CITY ROOFTOP EFFORTS TO QUIET A FUSSY BABY, FINDING THEIR WAY – NEAR JAFFA GATE, FINDING THEIR WAY NEAR DAVID’S TOWER

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Fussy_baby_3_tall  Fussy_baby_2_tall_4

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OK.  More tomorrow – onward to Tel Aviv – the Blue State to Jerusalem’s Red – at least 15 degrees warmer and the mirror opposite of this.