SHABBAT IN JERUSALEM – HATS – AND SHABBAT SHALOM

Ruthie_and_naomi_tightThese two lovelies, Ruthie (R) and Naomi (L), run a wonderful hat shop on King George St. in Jerusalem (#14  if you want to stop by…)  I met them last year and loved both the hats (if you live an observant life you wear a hat to services and many women wear them all or almost all the time) and the two of them.  A women-owned, sister-run company, their shop is my favorite – partly because Ruthie works on the hats right there in front of us – but also because they are such a great story. 

What better day than Shabbat to think about two wonderful women making us happy to wear our hats to shul?  I took two friends with me when I went there this time and among us I think we bought five hats!  Here’s mine:

Le_hat
A little stardust never hurt anyone, right?  I really love it and am now going to have to demonstrate enormous discipline by waiting until spring to wear it.  Let’s hear it for the girls, right?  And Shabbat Shalom. 

NOTE: this post was created Thursday night and set to be posted on Saturday morning.  NO WORK on it was done on Shabbat.

JERUSALEM DIARY 2.0: DAY TWELVE TEL AVIV DAY TWO

Tav_breakfast_cafe_4
Breakfast in our little cafe surrounded by locals with dogs and newspapers.  This is a wonderful neighborhood – the kind people move into until those who created it have to go someplace else because it’s become too expensive.  You can see it happening all around us.  But it’s fun for now and the Mediterranean is literally five or six blocks away. 

On our way out we passed this noodle stand  — I guess these people want fresh ones for Shabbat soupNoodles_for_shabbat_vertical

Recruiting_organ_donorsThese kids in the Carmel Market are canvassing to get people to sign up as organ donors.  In Israel it is still difficult to convince people to participate because of Halachic rules about burial.  Much has been done to change the rules, but the squeamishness has not abated.  They were charming kids, and very committed to this issue –  and they had quite a stack of cards of new registrants to the organ bank here.

It’s almost Shabbat so my post for tomorrow is written and ready; this is the last one from here.  I’m hoping we can go tonight to the beach for the drums that welcome Shabbat then to our friends for Shabbat dinner.

JERUSALEM DIARY 2.0 – DAY FOUR – THE SOTAH AND MEA SHEARIM

2_mea_sharimThursday morning I sent myself an email that said this:  We are just leaving Mea Shearim, the ultra-Orthodox neighborhood and I am so freaked out. Maybe the SOTAH story had more impact than I realized.   I told my husband that I was close to tears, that my chest was tight and I was someplace between scared and angry and he said – "You mean you felt like the Sotah, huh?"  Well. 

She does haunt me.  Even now, when I have learned so much that mitigates the horrors of her treatment, I can see her, standing there, as they pull off her hair covering and stand her before God (and the priests), forced to drink the waters full of dirt and ashes.  And what does that have to do with Mea Shearim?  I’m the intruder there; the very Orthodox residents who choose to remain largely on the outskirts of the rest of the world and  live a highly structured and mostly literal interpretation of every law and passage in the Torah – didn’t invite me to go wandering around looking at them while my husband bought a new Tallit (prayer shawl.)  Even so, for some reason every time I go there I get so sad.

At_the_bus_stop_mea_sharim_3My husband once accused me of "overidentification with the oppressed."  Maybe that’s it.  The men are so clearly the ones with the power here, walking by in 2’s and 3’s while harried mothers and kids run errands and see to 3 or 4 children under 5.  I have no right to consider them opressed.  Or unhappy. Or anything else.  What happens is that I imagine myself – stubborn, curious, eager to see and know everything – growing up here and wonder what would have become of me.  Maybe I would have had a peaceful and loving life, but my projections won’t let me think about that.  I just struggle with the stories I write in my mind about these families (these women) and their lives.

I have always loved The Chosen, and I have great respect for Chassidic Jews, for the most part.  But there is something about this infinitely old, infinitely tired part of Jerusalem that just breaks my heart.  As I write this, I suddenly wonder if perhaps it has more to do with me and my issues — that their lives are their own and I’m not sure that’s true of mine.

I’m writing this Thursday night in case I can’t finish it before Shabbat tomorrow — so Shabbat Shalom.

WELCOME TO NABLOPOMO! HOW I SOLVED THE SABBATH PROBLEM

Sabbath_candles_2This is a very exciting undertaking – a blog post a day for thirty days!  A little scary, but exciting.  For me though, it offered an extra challenge, one that forced me to drop out last year.  I can’t work on the Sabbath.  Every Saturday I observe Orthodox rules about the kindling of light, whether it be a spark plug in a car, a doorbell or a reading lamp.  God told us to rest, and every Sabbath we pray the He be "please with our rest."  It’s a pretty big thing.  And it’s lovely; beginning with the lighting of Sabbath candles on Friday night and then a festive dinner.  I’ve come to love the peace of it even though before we began our observant life I thought it was nuts.  It was a great lesson in not prejudging.  Ever.

So of course, there was no way that I could post on Saturdays.  I can’t use the computer.  Fortunately, technology solved the problem.  I figured out that if it’s ok to use timers for the dining room lights (it is) then I could set a timer for my post.  I’m writing each Saturday post in advance and setting it to be posted on Saturday morning.  And I’ll be in Israel for almost half the month so this will also be a great diar.  I’m looking forward to this.

SUKKOT, HOLIDAYS, IS GOD AROUND HERE SOMEPLACE?, ENOUGH IS ENOUGH

Sukkah
This is a Sukkah.  More on that in a minute.

My mother always used to tell me that it was better leave a party before you wanted to.  "Leave while it’s still fun" she would say, "and you’ll have loved every minute you were there."  I always thought that was a rationalization for wanting me home at a decent hour, but I think, as in many things, she was right.  We are now awaiting the last three days of what will be, in September and this week of October, ELEVEN days of limited activity and expected entertaining.  OH – and religious services, of course:  Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur and the first and then final days of Sukkot.  All of which fell on Thursday and Friday.  Leading into Saturday.  Which is the Sabbath.  SO.  No TV.  No phones.  No computers.  No e-mail even. No cooking for many of those days and ONLY for the day in question the rest of those days. 

Remember, these are very holy days, too.  You have to be sure to keep that in your mind; go to services and try to connect.  Our services are very uplifting and moving; we’re there all day and there’s lots of singing  and shared emotion.  You really know you’ve been praying and it’s a time when it’s easier to connect with one’s faith (at least for me.)

It also means, however,  that on Rosh Hashanah (the New Year) there was dinner Wednesday night, Thursday night and Friday night and lunch on Thursday, Friday and Saturday.  On Yom Kippur, a fast day, there was just preparation of a meal the night before.  That’s 7 meals.  We got through this fine – hosting three meals; and going to others for the other four.  It was a lot of cooking and enormous anxiety but it all was in the service of sharing and honoring these remarkable holidays with those we care about; our older son and his girl friend were even there for part of it; all worked out well. 

So where’s the BUT?  You know there’s one coming.  Well, five days later we hit Sukkot — the holiday where you have to eat outside in a "booth" (you can see the commandment here and an explanation at the bottom of this post)– to commemorate the Jewish people’s time living in booths in the desert during the Exodus.   That’s ours in the photo (undecorated because I can’t take photos on the holidays when it IS all set up.)   Again, two meals for two days at the beginning running into the Sabbath and two more at the end next week running into ANOTHER Sabbath.  AND you have people over the in the days in between too, at least a little bit. 

Most people I think are exhausted – hardly any have issued meal invitations although I hosted one lunch last Friday and we went to another family for dinner.  That still left three of the five uninvited.  That’s as stressful as cooking for the ones we host.  Where were we going – who was going where we weren’t?  Why did it matter?  What about praying – why is this temporal stuff  on our minds at all? 

I have to admit it bothers me a little; others I know are supremely troubled by it. I feel like such a whiny little brat.  Here we are just celebrating our
third year as active participants in this life and almost into our
third living in this community – having gained and learned so much –
and I’m complaining.  It’s so not what faith is supposed to be about but it’s still a real issue – especially when you haven’t been doing this long.

This is the first year we’ve really hosted people in our Sukkah and so we wanted all to be just right; mostly we have done great except for those invitation gaps.  I’m disappointed about that.  And I’m ashamed of us for caring at all.  These holidays are supposed to bring us closer to God but after seven days with three more coming all I feel close to is exhaustion.  I’ve spoken to many friends about this; the women, upon whom the cooking seems to fall, are more pissed but the guys are also tired.  Everyone is a little cranky. (My husband suggests that he is both tired AND cranky and the one doing most of the "taking inventory.") That’s probably true but it’s contagious!

Worst of all, it’s so anticlimactic.  I wish you could have been with us on Yom Kippur.  This holy day, which I had always experienced as solemn and sad, is, in our synagogue, a day of happiness.  We are there because of the gift of repentance, we are participating in a service that is thousands of years old, the music is just extraordinary and the ritual moving and humbling.  The young doctor who leads our service is profoundly spiritual and an amazing musician – here’s a sample of my favorite.

;   I call him the Bruce Springsteen of prayer because of the energy and depth he offers us, and we leave uplifted and inspired. 

So maybe the rapid slide into STILL MORE holiday after something so profound robs us of the full celebration of our Yom Kippur prayers – cutting off our feelings from that day but, as I write this, perhaps reminding us that one day’s repentance isn’t going to carry us through the year – or even the week – and that we must continue to try to find ways to follow our faith each moment, not just revel in past moments of spiritual ascendance.  And I guess each emotion is a brick in the road to where ever we’re bound – this though is certainly not one I’m proud of.

***One rabbi explains:
THE SUKKA reminds us of Israel’s honeymoon with God in the hostile desert (of
cruel history– there must be more shade than sun in the sukka), and of Divine
clouds hovering over them (= eventual redemption; stars must be visible thru
the sukka roof– Rav Riskin); God’s protection against forces of evil, when the
Jews seem most vulnerable (e.g. 1948, 1991 and Purim), climaxes in the pre-
Messianic battles of our Haftarot. Then God will raise up David’s fallen
"sukka"– the 3rd Temple, preceded by the rediscovered tabernacle. Discomfort,
e.g. rain, exempts one from Sukka– but those truly great stay, experiencing
no discomfort when surrounded by God’s glory (The Berditchever). The sukka is
a symbol of peace, for it is open— to the elements of nature, to the heavens
above and, foremost, to guests, far and near (Rav Avigdor Hacohen). As we
invite guests to our sukka, not only do we do a good deed of kindness and
spread holiday cheer, but we also imitate God Himself, the Ultimate Model Host,
Who constantly feeds, clothes and houses all His creatures; we thus develop our
own Divine Image.
 

THE END OF MATZO MANIA – FOR NOW

HaggadahWell it’s finally over. All that’s left now is to move all the Passover stuff (dishes, pots, flat ware, utensils, pot holders, dish towels, condiments, coffee pot, etc) down to the basement and reinstitute the usual kitchen — including replacing a pantry full of cereal, rice, Tasty Bites instant Indian food, cous cous, brownie mixes, pasta sauce, olives, capers, and all the rest.)

DishesIt’s a real pain in the neck. I started this post Tuesday night and should have taken photos but suffice it to say we stopped and started and it’s now 7AM Thursday and everything is back where it was. I’m kind of embarassed by how hostile this long long holiday has made me. In the time from the Monday night it started until Wednesday evening of the next week, we spent five days living “Sabbath rules” — no driving, no cooking, no turning lights on /off, no shopping etc. In addition to all the stuff we weren’t allowed to eat (Passover rules forbid anything that isn’t “kosher for Passover” — nothing that has been leavened (bread, cereal, pasta etc). plus lots of other products without Kosher for Passover lables) we used different dishes, pots, utensils, napkins, dish towels etc etc etc. (Those were some of what I had to store at the close of the holiday.)

I used to really love Passover and very early on some of our Orthodox friends (women) warned me that it was so much work I might never feel the same way about it despite the magnificent religious and political messages of freedom and justice it contains.

It’s the enormous amout of work that changes things. For some reason it really set me off – I’ve been pissed for days, even though, unlike our friends, I didn’t do any entertaining to speak of. Since this was the first year we’ve observed the holiday in this way, we only bought a few “Pesach” articles; figured next year we’d do it up right. One of my friends told me I might have been less upset if I’d just invited people and used paper plates…. that not entertaining for some of the TEN!! “festive meals” – (Sabbath eve and lunch — as well as two seders, two other dinners on the last two days and four lunches i addition to Shabbat) — just made me feel more anxious. We did enjoy each of the meals to which we were invited, and were grateful to be asked, but who knows?

Anyway it’s over now until next year; I have some time to get used to yet another set of obligations. Some days it seems that there are so many and I’m nowhere near all the way there yet…. They say this religion is a journey not a destination. Last week was one where I really felt I still have a long way to go!

OH THOSE CANDLES

Candles One of the great gifts of an observant Jewish life is the lighting of Sabbath candles.  At a prescribed time each Friday, 18 minutes before sundown, it is the obligation of the Jewish woman to light candles as a symbolic acceptance of the Sabbath upon herself.  The prayer is said AFTER you light the candles because once they’re lit, the Sabbath rules – ignite no fire, do no work etc. preclude the lighting of a match.

Here’s how it works: you light the candles, move your hands above the candles three times to bring their warmth toward you, then cover your eyes and say a simple blessing.  It’s in Hebrew, but it means “Blessed are You, Lord, our God, King of the Universe, who sanctifies us with his commandments, and enjoins us to light the candles of Shabbat.”  Yes,the words of the prayer are plain; women say them in every corner of the earth – educated or not, every week and have been doing so for thousands of years.  Many of us add prayers of our own, for those we love, for peace, for the lifting of burdens, for a better world.

I always take a very deep breath — the kind they taught us when I was quitting smoking — and exhale very slowly, releasing a lot of the stress of the week before I begin.  One of my friends told me that when she was in medical school and having babies at the same time, she’d weep, every week, as she felt the burdens fall from her in the glow of the flame.

Makes sense to me.  Something about this ritual is transporting.  I also love the idea that this is a woman’s privilege.  Much has been written about what observant Jewish women are NOT permitted to do – and much of it is true.  That’s another conversation.  But the impact of this particular duty is profound, beautiful and serene and I am grateful for it.  So, as we move toward the close of this day and toward what I have found to be the true peace of the sabbath – I send to you, whatever your faith – a peaceful wish — Shabbat Shalom.

OUT OF THE CLOSET

I sometimes write about the beginnings of this Jewish life I am trying to live.  Today a piece I wrote this summer appears in the Orthodox Union magazine – called Shabbat Shalom.  It’s about the day I made our home kosher.  It’s pretty straightforward but for anyone who wonders how I can write about Patti Smith and observant Judaism in the same post, it will be interesting.  Actually, I’m pretty proud of it.  Here’s a preview – then you can go read it.

October 18, 2006  I Have a Kosher Home 

image

Today I kashered my kitchen. Well, actually – a lovely Tunisian friend named Riadh and his catering team did the work. I just designated things milk, meat and parve and called the Rabbi to ask if I had to get rid of all my knives and whether you had to polish the silver before kashering it (you don’t.) Strange things happened. The idea of giving up my mother’s bread knife had me close to tears. The idea of never using my blue mugs (now dairy) when I served dinner on our white china (meat) made me angry. Was I sure – I asked myself – that this was the right decision – a commitment that, once made, I would honor as a matter of principle as well as faith

I wrote it because I was asked to – but it was valuable to have to describe something about our Orthodox life in concrete terms.  There’s a 12 step saying "fake it til you make it."  I’ve discovered that it works well in a quest for faith too.  When Woody Allen said 90% (or 85 or 95 depending on the source) of life is just showing up." he was right.  If you’re not there trying you aren’t going to get very far.

So take a look and let me know what you think.  This has been an important passage for me and it flies in the face of the secular nature of the political and social circles in which I’ve always lived. So many people are moving in the other direction – Europe – always a place I felt supremely comfortable – is mostly secular now.  So is the progressive universe in which I spend most of my time.  Even so I feel a sense of peace that I haven’t known before as I make my way slowly toward more and more observant living.  Probably part of the reason is that no one is pushing me — my husband and I determine the speed and nature of our evolution and it’s often not at precisely the same rate.  But we’re getting where we need to go and learning to accept the discipline.  Our children have come, I think, to at least respect what we’re doing; at the same time, we need to remember to respect their right to decide their own spiritual lives even if the decision differs radically from ours. 

That’s enough.  Read the piece and comment here, will you?  I want to know how it looks from the outside.