JERUSALEM, THE WALL, AND THE SEPARATION OF WOMEN AND MEN

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Early this morning, in a gray, chilly rain, around ten of us went to the Western Wall (the Kotel) to say morning prayers.  It’s always very moving (and sometimes upsetting) to go to the Kotel.  I’ve been there in summer and fall, alone, with our kids and with groups, to a bar mitzvah and a paratrooper regiment induction (all Israeli military take their oaths there), when I was first pregnant 30+ years ago, and  placed a prayer for our new child’s health into one of the cracks, and countless other times.  One thing remains true.  There’s the Kotel_erica
really big men’s side….   

and the really small and usually (though not today) ridiculously crowded women’s side.  Surprisingly, the separation, like that in the  synagogue, doesn’t bother me.  If I were a young mother whose sons and husband were sitting together while I sat alone, I might feel differently but for some reason I like being with my "sisters" on the women’s side, not worrying about the spiritual condition of anyone but myself.  It’s peaceful.

Of course, in all parts of observant Judaism there’s an undertone of the perplexing – why must women and men be apart for so many of life’s critical moments?  Some of the rules, however they are justified, are difficult and I’m struggling to be available to understand them.  The toughest right now, because we’ve just been learning it, are the Laws of Family Purity and the physical separation of husband and wife any time there is a presence, or recent presence, of menstrual blood.  It’s confusing enough dealing with periods, and the "clean" days after one’s period ends, which must pass before any kind of physical contact (not just sex) is permitted.  Of course rules like these are observed to different degrees by different couples.  Some make token acknowledgment of the requirements.  Some sleep in separate beds.  Some don’t sit on the same couch if there is only one cushion.  SOME won’t even pass a bottle of milk from one hand to the other but place the bottle on the table for the other to retrieve.  OK. That’s a choice – it all comes from brief mentions in the Torah, this is how it’s been interpreted and it’s so private that each couple finds its own way of living within the law.  Women also find their own ways of dealing with what could seem a real stigma.  One of my favorite teachers says it’s a time to "reclaim one’s body for oneself" and further, that the physical restrictions cause couples to deal more openly in verbal terms with many of life’s issues, because physical contact isn’t part of the equation.  I just listen and work to be open-minded – I have learned that much about this world into which I’ve moved becomes intelligible over time – and not to condemn that which I haven’t had a chance to absorb.

Even more confusing and the hardest of all, for me, are the rules of childbirth and miscarriage.  Because we bleed after childbirth, once we are free of birth pains and no longer in distress, in many families the husband does not touch his wife again after that initial support during birth, until the bleeding stops.  One rabbi’s rule:  "Help physically as much as you need to during labor – but the minute the baby is born – no more."  Others say that a post-partum woman is still "sick" so deserving of as much love and affection as she requires.  The same divisions exist after a miscarriage.  The bleeding preempts physical contact once the initial trauma is over.  This is tough stuff.  (There’s also lots to say about the Mikvah – a ritual bath married women visit before resuming sexual relations after periods or childbirth. I learned an enormous amount about that today from a generous young, newly-married friend who’s also on this trip.  But I think it’s another post altogether.  I acknowledge that here so you don’t think I’ve omitted it altogether.)

I have waited over a week since our class about this before I posted, in order to allow myself time to think about it.  I’ve brought myself to a position of tolerance and acceptance; those who believe that this is the way God wants us to live, or believe that these are God’s laws which cannot be broken no matter how we feel — these loving souls should "live and be well" within the life’s rules they’ve chosen.  I’m through with condemnations of everything I don’t agree with.  I used to think so many things —  things that this life has taught me were just ONE WAY of seeing the world.  I’m working on reaching that attitude toward these rules of "family purity." 

They arise today because of this trip to the Kotel – just one more separation — that placed this new family information in sharp relief.  I’ve been troubled by it – probably always will be.  But I consider it real growth that I’m working to understand, not deride, these ideas.  What better place to do that than in this holy city?

CITY OF GOLD? NOT TODAY – A NEW WAY TO SEE JERUSALEM

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Usually when I write about visits to Jerusalem it’s to a city that looks like this —  night over an illuminated, golden old city

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Or this-  sunset over the windmill of Yemen Moshe.

Not today though.  Today, outside the lovely apartment we’re staying in this week – there was

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SNOW!!!  not a lot of snow by the time we arrived – but enough to leave little piles along the curb, to color gardens and car windshields white and to make it cold, wet and windy.  Too wet to even take many photos – but this will give you an idea.

It’s been an eventful day.  We had a snowy, foggy ride from Tel Aviv and arrived in Jerusalem to see kids building snowmen with the soggy remains of the storm, people bundled up and damp and, for those who usually visit in prime weather months, a city that was almost unrecognizable.

We spent the afternoon wandering around in the slush, buying groceries and even taking a cozy nap with the storm ranting outside.  We had a crazy dinner with our synagogue group in a great kosher Chinese restaurant and now, as soon as I post this, we’ll go to sleep so we can get up and go early to the Western Wall in the morning.  I’ll have more to report then.

MOVIES, AIRPLANES AND (ALMOST NOT) ARRIVING IN ISRAEL

Ffurt_aiport_3 Never a dull moment. After a relatively uneventful flight from Dulles to Frankfurt – even two movies I wanted to see (Michael Clayton and Gone Baby, Gone) we went to the Lufthansa desk to pick up our boarding passes for the Frankfurt-Tel Aviv leg of our trip. The airport was teeming despite the fact tat it was only 7AM. This is such a big transit point that flights come in from all over the world and you think nothing of passing women in abayas, Africans in full regalia, European speaking every language in the EU and of course Americans of every conceivable type. Even though the airport is in one of, if not THE major commercial cities of Europe, the variety is such that you don’t really think of yourself as being in Germany but sort of floating in some netherworld.

After waiting in a very long line, we finally reached the ticket agent, who took quite some time to pull up our information. This is very unusual in a German institution, especially Lufthansa, which is always completely efficient. Then we found our why. Rick’s passport expires August 11th. Today is February 18th – a week short of six months. Israeli security requires that a passport be valid for at east six months after scheduled arrival in Israel. He’s a week shy of that and we spent an anxious couple of hours in the Lufthansa business class lounge waiting to see what would happen. But when the flight was finally called, (and after we went through Secrurity causing a ruckus as my Macbook Air emerged to flounce its way through the Xray machine) we waltzed onto the plane with nary a question. Much ado about nothing — but given the German penchant for regulations and the Israeli attitude toward accommodation, it could have been otherwise.

Nina_room_1_9Nina_room_2Now we’re in Tel Aviv – back at the wonderful Nina Suites in the arty neighborhood of Neve Tzedek, and enjoying what I”m pretty sure is a nice funky neighborhood about to turn into the unaffordable Soho of Tel Aviv.

But we’re jet lagged and grubby and so now we’re going to sleep. But I’m leaving you with one extra photo – te kind you show to your kids in the “gee wiz” years They were de-icing the wing right outside our window as we waited to leave Frankfurt.

Deicing_in_frankfurt_2COOL, HUH?

LEAVIN’ ON A JET PLANE – ISRAEL AGAIN

Dscn0452Tomorrow – Sunday afternoon – we leave again for Israel.  I’m amazed that we’re returning so soon and will be curious to see how it feels to be with a group instead of just the two of us. Last time was so perfect;  that always makes me nervous – it’s not good to try to recreate perfection so we have to just allow this trip to evolve as its own.

We’re staying in a beautiful apartment in a great neighborhood and have great plans – I promise to keep you posted here.

DECLARE YOURSELF: VOTE. IT’S THE LEAST YOU CAN DO!

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My good buddy Jenn Satterwhite posted this last week and although it’s a little nerdy, it’s kind of cute.  At least it’s fun – especially if you’re my age and used to have to watch films like this for real.  It comes from an organization called Declare Yourself.  Aimed at 18-year-olds, it reaches out through these online PSAs and other tools to engage younger people in voting. Sponsors range from Yahoo to Clear Channel to Starbucks.  I don’t know how they’re doing, but the videos are fun.  There’s one here and more on the site.  Enjoy yourself.

TIME PASSES: HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO A LONG-TIME FRIEND

Mudd_blurrySaturday night we went to an 80th birthday party.  It was for someone whose 43rd we’d also attended — a long time to know someone.  He’s a wonderful man with a wonderful family, and you would know his name if I wrote it here – but it was his party not mine and somehow it feels intrusive to tell you who he is. 

When I was first in the news business, he taught me a great deal.  Ever courtly and generous, excellent at what he did, he shared so much of what he knew and felt about news, politics, government and life.  With humor.  And a gentle sense of irony.  I wish I could communicate how thrilling it was to wander through the tunnels under the Senate, past the secret offices where senators met for gumbo and whiskey, around the corner called "coffin corner" because when the dead lay in state, the coffin had to be tipped vertically to get around the corner on its way to the Rotunda that was its destination — with this gifted man as my guide.

All his kids were at the party of course, along with their spouses and a ton of grandchildren.  All four kids were younger than these grandkids when they attended our wedding.  There were (very short and funny) speeches, lots of teasing, and not an ounce of pretense or artifice.  Of course, the fact that all of them were so happy to see me after our long sojourn in California and year on separate paths, made me feel great.  Even so, the great gift of this evening was that I didn’t even think of that until later.  When you share so much of life, and work, affection and high regard with someone,  you have the luxury of honoring them without obsessing about what it all means to you.  That should tell you more about him than anything. 

JEWISH SEX, HONOR AND HOLINESS

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Sex and religion have always seemed at odds.  Stories of sexual impulsivity have been with us forever  – King David and Batsheva , Anna Karenina, , Atonement , Prince Charles, presidents, senators, preachers and ball players.  So it’s not surprising that human beings struggle to maintain heavy sexual controls within the rules of faith.  Any faith.

In a class this week though, we studied the unique textual perspective toward sex within Judaism.  The great teacher Laura Shaw Frank, about whom I’ve written before, returned for four weeks to teach the Orthodox "Laws of Family Purity" — an unfortunate term since, for me at least, the first association I make when I hear "family purity" is "racial purity."  But never mind, that’s another Atonement_movie_3
conversation. 

There are complicated laws concerning marital relations, menstruation and other issues within the intimacies of marriage and we will study them for the next three weeks.  Last night though, we began at the beginning.  What do Jewish texts tell us about the place of sex in a Jewish life?

The premise: that sex, within Jewish life, is part of the holiness of families, and serves to hold families, and traditions, together. "How can we say the "evil inclination" (sex drive) is very good?  It is to teach us that if there were no evil inclination, a man would not build a home for himself, and wouldn’t marry a woman and wouldn’t beget children.*"  The bottom line appears to be that honor, decency and institutional preservation depend upon sexual desire – which in turn, in those working to control it within themselves, leads to the creation of and adherence to civilization, marriage and family. 

Beyond that, these connections must work on three levels — the interpersonal, between man and woman (or man/man or woman/woman, but not then), the cosmic – with God – and historic – with all of the Jewish people.  Always, sex is meant to allow us to honor one another and therefore honor God.  Throughout the class I kept thinking of this — it seems to sum it all up.  A young soldier, leaving for war, trying to explain his departure to his beloved. It’s going to be interesting to see how all of this supports some of the more unusual Orthodox rules of physical intimacy.  Stay tuned.

To Lucasta, Going off to the Wars
Richard Lovelace
(1618-1658)
 
Tell me not, Sweet, I am unkind,
That from the nunnery
Of thy chaste breast and quiet mind
To war and arms I fly.
True, a new mistress now I chase,
The first foe in the field;
And with a stronger faith embrace
A sword, a horse, a shield.

Yet this inconstancy is such
As thou too shalt adore;
I could not love thee, Dear, so much,
Loved I not Honour more.

*Kohelet Rabba 3:16